A theoretical study is made of shearing flows bounded by a simple-harmonic wavy surface, the main object being to calculate the normal and tangential stresses on the boundary. The type of flow considered is approximately parallel in the absence of the waves, being exemplified by two-dimensional boundary layers over a plane. Account is taken of viscosity; but, as the Reynolds number is assumed to be large, its effects are seen to be confined within narrow ‘friction layers’, one of which adjoins the wave and another surrounds the ‘critical point’ where the velocity of flow equals the wave velocity. The boundary conditions are made as general as possible by including the three cases where respectively the boundary is rigid, flexible yet still solid, or completely mobile as if it were the interface with a second fluid.
The theory is developed on the model of stable laminar flow, although it is proposed that the same theory may usefully be applied also to examples of turbulent flow considered as ‘pseudo-laminar’ with velocity profiles corresponding to the mean-velocity distribution. Use is made of curvilinear co-ordinates which follow the contour of the wave-train. This admits a linearized form of the problem whose validity requires only that the wave amplitude be small in comparison with the wavelength, even when large velocity gradients exist close to the boundary. The analysis is made largely without restriction to particular forms of the velocity profile; but eventually consideration is given to the example of a linear profile and the example of a boundary-layer profile approximated by a quarter-period sinusoid. In § 7 some general methods are set out for the treatment of disturbed boundary-layer proses: these apply with greatest precision to thin boundary layers, but are also useful for the initially very steep but on the whole fairly diffuse profiles which occur in most practical instances of turbulent flow over waves.
The phase relationships found between the stresses and the wave elevation are discussed for several examples, and their interest in connexion with problems of wave generation by wind is pointed out. It is shown that in most circumstances the stresses are distributed in much the same way as if the leeward slopes of the waves were sheltered. For instance, the pressure distribution often has a substantial component in phase with the wave slope, just as if a wake were formed behind each wave crest—although of course actual separation effects are outside the scope of the present theory. In this aspect, the analysis amplifies the work of Miles (1957).