The aim of this experiment was to determine the mechanisms involved in changes in the production of cashmere as a consequence of genetic selection. Skin follicle parameters and pattern of cashmere growth were compared in two selected lines of Scottish cashmere goats and a randomly bred control line. One line, the fine line, had been selected for low fibre diameter, and this had resulted in lower fibre diameter, but the weight of cashmere produced had also been reduced. Selection for fibre quantity and quality to give maximum financial return (the value line) had increased cashmere weight without a significant increase in cashmere diameter.
Skin follicle density and the ratio of secondary to primary follicles (S/P ratio) were measured at 5 months of age in 25 female kids from each line. The density of follicles in the value line was greater (P · 0.05) than that in the fine or control lines (means were 21·8, 19·8 and 20·1 follicles per mm2 respectively, s.e.d. 0.73). S/P ratio increased (P · 0.001) from control to fine to value lines (means were 6.5, 7.7 and 8.4 respectively, s.e.d. = 0.30).
The rate of cashmere growth (length), peak cashmere length, the duration of the cashmere growing period and dates of initiation and cessation of growth were measured in the same 25 goats from each line between 2 and 3 years of age. These traits were estimated from the regression of measurements of staple length taken at approximately 6-weekly intervals from the start of the growing period until peak staple length was reached. Measurements were made on the shoulder, mid side and hip. There was no difference in cashmere growth rate between the selection lines (average 0·29 (s.e. 0.006) mm/day). Cashmere growth started earliest in the value line and latest in the fine line but the date of cessation of growth was not different. This affected the duration of the growing period which was 183, 163 and 214 days (s.e.d. 9.6, P · 0.001) for the control, fine and value lines respectively. Peak staple length of cashmere was longest in the value line.
Increased weight of cashmere in the value line was brought about through an increase in the number of secondary follicles and by an increase in the length of cashmere due to an increase in the duration of the growing period.