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2 results

  • Chapter Four - Gravity Waves on Water

  • Johannes Falnes, Adi Kurniawan
  • Book:
    Ocean Waves and Oscillating Systems
    Published online:
    12 May 2020
    Print publication:
    28 May 2020, pp 62-120

  • Summary

    Chapter 4 introduces basic differential equations and boundary conditions for gravity waves propagating along a water surface. Assuming low wave amplitudes, equations are linearised. Then a quantitative discussion is given for harmonical (sinusoidal) waves propagating either on deep water, or otherwise on water of constant depth. Phase and group velocities are introduced, and then formulas are derived for the potential energy and the kinetic energy associated with a water wave. A closely related result is an important formula for the wave-power level, which equals the wave’s group velocity multiplied by the wave’s stored – kinetic + potential – energy per unit of sea surface. An additional subject is the wave’s momentum density. A section concerns real sea waves. Further, circular waves are mathematically described. Two sections of the chapter concern mathematical tools to be applied in Chapters 5–8 of the book. A final section considers water waves analysed in the time domain.