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The Liturgical Cope of D. Teotónio of Braganza: Material Characterization of a 16th Century Pluviale

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  12 November 2014

Teresa Ferreira ,
Hugo Moreiras ,
Ana Manhita Open the ORCID record for Ana Manhita [Opens in a new window] ,
Paula Tomaz ,
José Mirão ,
Cristina B. Dias  and
Ana T. Caldeira
Teresa Ferreira*
Affiliation:
Departamento de Química, Escola de Ciências e Tecnologia, Laboratório HERCULES & Centro de Química de Évora, Universidade de Évora, Largo Marquês de Marialva 8, 7000-809 Évora, Portugal
Hugo Moreiras
Affiliation:
Laboratório HERCULES & Centro de Química de Évora, Universidade de Évora, Largo Marquês de Marialva 8, 7000-809 Évora, Portugal
Ana Manhita
Affiliation:
Laboratório HERCULES & Centro de Química de Évora, Universidade de Évora, Largo Marquês de Marialva 8, 7000-809 Évora, Portugal
Paula Tomaz
Affiliation:
Laboratório José de Figueiredo, Direção Geral do Património Cultural, Rua das Janelas Verdes, 1249-018 Lisboa, Portugal
José Mirão
Affiliation:
Departamento de Geociências, Escola de Ciências e Tecnologia, Laboratório HERCULES & Centro de Geofísica de Évora, Universidade de Évora, Largo Marquês de Marialva 8, 7000-809 Évora, Portugal
Cristina B. Dias
Affiliation:
Departamento de Química, Escola de Ciências e Tecnologia, Laboratório HERCULES & Centro de Química de Évora, Universidade de Évora, Largo Marquês de Marialva 8, 7000-809 Évora, Portugal
Ana T. Caldeira
Affiliation:
Departamento de Química, Escola de Ciências e Tecnologia, Laboratório HERCULES & Centro de Química de Évora, Universidade de Évora, Largo Marquês de Marialva 8, 7000-809 Évora, Portugal
*
*Corresponding author.[email protected]
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Abstract

A 16th century liturgical cope belonging to D. Teotónio of Braganza (collection of the Museum of Évora, ME 172/1) was selected for a material study. The cope is made of a variety of materials that include two different types of metal threads, dyed silk yarns, and vegetable yarns used in the weft. Several samples from different points representing the different metal thread types and colored silk yarns were collected. Stereomicroscopy (optical microscopy) and scanning electron microscopy were used for morphological analysis of the textile fibers and evaluation of metal thread degradation products. Evaluation of mordants and metal thread composition was carried out by energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy. Liquid chromatography with diode array and mass spectrometry detection was used for dye identification, which allowed the determination of three different red dye sources and one yellow dye source in the colored silk yarns. Although different fabrics were used in the manufacturing of the cope, similarities identified in the characterization of the materials suggest that a single workshop was involved in its making.

Keywords

D. Teotónio of Braganzaliturgical copemetal threadsilk yarnnatural dye
Type
SPMicros Special Section
Information
Microscopy and Microanalysis , Volume 21 , Supplement 1 , February 2015 , pp. 2 - 14
Copyright
© Microscopy Society of America 2014 

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