Hostname: page-component-cd9895bd7-jkksz Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-12-19T14:46:56.087Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false
  • English
  • Français

Experimental study of the instabilities of waves obliquely incident on a beach

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  19 April 2006

R. T. Guza  and
D. C. Chapman
R. T. Guza
Affiliation:
Shore Processes Laboratory, Scripps Institution of Oceanography, La Jolla, California 92093
D. C. Chapman
Affiliation:
Shore Processes Laboratory, Scripps Institution of Oceanography, La Jolla, California 92093
Get access Rights & Permissions [Opens in a new window]

Abstract

Monochromatic waves obliquely incident on a plane beach, and strongly reflected there, are unstable to perturbations by edge waves. Theory suggests the possible width of the resonant edge wave frequency band. Experiments on beaches with absorbers at both ends show that the excited waves have frequencies at the centre of the band, as predicted by Guza & Bowen (1975). Advection by mean longshore currents must be taken into account. If reflectors are placed at the beach ends, the additional boundary conditions apparently lead to resonances scattered across the resonant band.

Type
Research Article
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 95 , Issue 1 , 14 November 1979 , pp. 199 - 208
Copyright
© 1979 Cambridge University Press

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Guza, R. T. & Bowen, A. J. 1975 The resonant instabilities of long waves obliquely incident on a beach. J. geophys. Res. 80, 4529–4534.Google Scholar
Guza, R. T. & Bowen, A. J. 1976a Finite amplitude edge waves. J. mar. Res. 34, 269–293.Google Scholar
Guza, R. T. & Bowen, A. J. 1976b Resonant interactions for waves breaking on a beach. Proc. 15th Coast. Engng Conf., pp. 560–579.Google Scholar
Guza, R. T. & Davis, R. E. 1974 Excitation of edge waves by waves incident on a beach. J. geophys. Res. 79, 1285–1291.Google Scholar
Guza, R. T. & Inman, D. L. 1975 Edge waves and beach cusps. J. geophys. Res. 80, 2997–3012.Google Scholar
Huntley, D. A. & Bowen, A. J. 1978 The 3-dimensional flow field on a natural beach. Proc. 16th International Conf. on Coastal Engng (in press).Google Scholar
Kenyon, K. 1971 Wave refraction in ocean currents, Deep Sea Res. 18, 1023–1034.Google Scholar
Minzoni, A. A. & Whitham, G. B. 1977 On the excitation of edge waves on beaches. J. Fluid Mech. 79, 273–287.Google Scholar
Rockliff, N. 1978 Finite amplitude effects in free and forced edge waves. Math. Proc. Camb. Phil. Soc. 83, 463–479.Google Scholar