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Asymptotics for the long-time evolution of kurtosis of narrow-band ocean waves

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  26 November 2018

Peter A. E. M. Janssen Open the ORCID record for Peter A. E. M. Janssen [Opens in a new window]  and
Augustus J. E. M. Janssen
Peter A. E. M. Janssen*
Affiliation:
E.C.M.W.F., Shinfield Park, ReadingRG2 9AX, UK
Augustus J. E. M. Janssen
Affiliation:
Department of Mathematics and Computer Science, Eindhoven University of Technology, 5600 MB Eindhoven, The Netherlands
*
†Email address for correspondence: [email protected]
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Abstract

In this paper we highlight that extreme events such as freak waves are a transient phenomenon in keeping with the old fisherman tale that these extreme events seem to appear out of nowhere. Janssen (J. Phys. Oceanogr., vol. 33, 2003, pp. 863–884) obtained an evolution equation for the ensemble average of the excess kurtosis, which is a measure for the deviation from normality and an indicator for nonlinear focusing resulting in extreme events. In the limit of a narrow-band wave train, whose dynamics is governed by the two-dimensional nonlinear Schrödinger (NLS) equation, the excess kurtosis is under certain conditions seen to grow to a maximum after which it decays to zero for large times. This follows from a numerical solution of the problem and also from an analytical solution presented by Fedele (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 782, 2015, pp. 25–36). The analytical solution is not explicit because it involves an integral from initial time to actual time. We therefore study a number of properties of the integral expression in order to better understand some interesting features of the time-dependent excess kurtosis and the generation of extreme events.

JFM classification

Waves/Free-surface Flows: Surface gravity waves Waves/Free-surface Flows: Waves/Free-surface Flows
Type
JFM Papers
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 859 , 25 January 2019 , pp. 790 - 818
Copyright
© 2018 Cambridge University Press 

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