Hostname: page-component-cd9895bd7-7cvxr Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-12-20T07:30:35.840Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

A Lagrangian model for wave-induced harbour oscillations

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  26 April 2006

J. A. Zelt
Affiliation:
W. M. Keck Laboratory of Hydraulics and Water Resources, Division of Engineering and Applied Science, California Institute of Technology, Pasadena, CA 91125, USA
F. Raichlen
Affiliation:
W. M. Keck Laboratory of Hydraulics and Water Resources, Division of Engineering and Applied Science, California Institute of Technology, Pasadena, CA 91125, USA

Abstract

A set of equations in the Lagrangian description are derived for the propagation of long gravity waves in two horizontal directions for the purpose of determining the response of harbours with sloping boundaries to long waves. The equations include terms to account for weakly nonlinear and dispersive processes. A finite element formulation for these equations is developed which treats the propagation of transient waves in regions of arbitrary shape with vertical or sloping boundaries. Open boundaries are treated by specifying the wave elevation along the boundary or by applying a radiation boundary condition to absorb the waves leaving the computational domain. Nonlinear aspects of the interaction of long gravity waves with sloping boundaries and frequency dispersion due to non-hydrostatic effects are investigated. Results from the model are then compared with laboratory experiments of the response to long-wave excitation of a narrow rectangular harbour with a depth that decreases linearly from the entrance to the shore line.

Type
Research Article
Copyright
© 1990 Cambridge University Press

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

References

Bowen, A. J. 1969 Rip currents, 1, Theoretical investigations. J. Geophys. Res. 74, 23, 54675478.Google Scholar
Bowen, A. J. & Inman, D. L. 1969 Rip currents, 2, Laboratory and field observations. J. Geophys. Res. 74, 54795490.Google Scholar
Carrier, G. F. & Greenspan, H. P. 1958 Water waves of finite amplitude on a sloping beach. J. Fluid Mech. 4, 97109.Google Scholar
Connor, J. J. & Brebbia, C. A. 1976 Finite Element Techniques for Fluid Flow. Butterworth.
Eagleson, P. S. & Dean, R. G. 1966 Small amplitude wave theory. In Estuary and Coastline Hydrodynamics (ed. A. T. Ippen). McGraw-Hill.
Eckart, C. 1963 Some transformations of the hydrodynamic equations. Phys. Fluids 6, 10371041.Google Scholar
Gopalakrishnan, T. C. & Tung, C. C. 1983 Numerical analysis of a moving boundary problem in coastal hydrodynamics. Intl J. Numer. Meth. Fluids 3, 179200.Google Scholar
Goring, D. G. 1978 Tsunamis — the propagation of long waves onto a shelf. PhD thesis, W. M. Keck Laboratory of Hydraulics and Water Resources, Rep. no. KH-R-38, California Institute of Technology, Pasadena, California.
Goto, C. 1979 Nonlinear equation of long waves in the lagrangian description. Coastal Engng Japan 22, 19.Google Scholar
Goto, C. & Shuto, N. 1980 Run-up of tsunamis by linear and nonlinear theories In Coastal Engineering. Proc. of the Seventeenth Coastal Engineering Conf., Sydney, Australia. ASCE, vol. 1, pp. 695707
Guza, R. T. & Davis, R. E. 1974 Excitation of edge waves by waves incident on a beach. J. Geophys. Res. 79, 12851291.Google Scholar
Heitner, K. L. 1969 A mathematical model for calculation of the run-up of tsunamis. PhD thesis. California Institute of Technology, Pasadena, California.
Heitner, K. L. 1970 Additional investigations on a mathematical model for calculations of the run-up of tsunamis. Earthquake Engineering Research Laboratory Rep. California Institute of Technology, Pasadena, California.
Houston, J. R. & Butler, H. L. 1979 A numerical model for tsunami inundation. Tech. Rep. HL-79–2. Hydraulics Laboratory, US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, Mississippi.
Keller, J. B. & Keller, H. B. 1964 Water wave run-up on a beach. Research Report for the Office of Naval Research, Department of the Navy. Service Bureau Corporation. New York, NY.
Keller, J. B. & Keller, H. B. 1965 Water wave run-up on a beach. II Research Report for the Office of Naval Research, Department of the Navy. Service Bureau Corporation. New York, NY.
Lamb, H. 1932 Hydrodynamics, 6th edn. Dover.
Lepelletier, T. G. 1980 Tsunamis — harbor oscillations induced by nonlinear transient long waves. W. M. Keck Laboratory of Hydraulics and Water Resources, Rep. no. KH-R–41, California Institute of Technology, Pasadena, California.
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. 1970 Longshore currents generated by obliquely incident sea waves, 1. J. Geophys. Res. 75, 67786789.Google Scholar
Lynch, D. R. & Gray, W. G. 1978 Finite element simulation of shallow water problems with moving boundaries. Finite Elements in Water Resources. Pentech. 2.23–2.42.Google Scholar
Lynch, D. R. & Gray, W. G. 1980 Finite element simulation of flow in deforming regions. J. Comp. Phys. 36, 135153.Google Scholar
Mei, C. C., Liu, P. & Ippen, A. T. 1974 Quadratic loss and scattering of long waves. J. Waterways, Harbors Coastal Engng Div. ASCE 100, WW3, August, 217237.Google Scholar
Meyer, R. E. 1971 Introduction to Mathematical Fluid Dynamics. Dover.
Miles, J. W. 1974 Harbor seiching. Ann. Rev. Fluid Mech. 6, 1735.Google Scholar
Mungall, J. C. H. & Reid, R. O. 1978 A radiation boundary condition for radially-spreading non-dispersive waves. Tech. Rep. 78–2-T. Texas A & M University.
Pedersen, G. & Gjevik, B. 1983 Run-up of solitary waves. J. Fluid Mech. 135, 283299.Google Scholar
Peregrine, D. H. 1967 Long waves on a beach. J. Fluid Mech. 27, 815827.Google Scholar
Raichlen, F. 1966 Estuary and Coastline Hydrodynamics (ed. A. T. Ippen). McGraw-Hill.
Raichlen, F. 1976 Coastal wave hydrodynamics — theory and engineering applications. W. M. Keck Laboratory of Hydraulics and Water Resources. Tech. Mem. 76–1. California Institute of Technology, Pasadena, California.
Reid, R. O. & Bodine, B. R. 1968 Numerical model for storm surges in Galveston Bay. J. Waterways Harbors Division ASCE 94, WW1, 3357.Google Scholar
Rogers, S. R. & Mei, C. C. 1978 Nonlinear resonant excitation of a long and narrow bay. J. Fluid Mech. 88, 161180.Google Scholar
Sielecki, A. & Wurtele, M. G. 1970 The numerical integration of the nonlinear shallow-water equations with sloping boundaries. J. Comp. Phys. 6, 219236.Google Scholar
Shuto, N. 1967 Run-up of long waves on a sloping beach. Coastal Engng Japan 10, 2338.Google Scholar
Shuto, N. 1968 Three dimensional behavior of long waves on a sloping beach. Coastal Engng Japan 11, 5357.Google Scholar
Shuto, N. 1972 Standing waves in front of a sloping dike. Coastal Engng Japan 15, 1323.Google Scholar
Shuto, N. & Goto, T. 1978 Numerical simulation of tsunami run-up. Coastal Engng Japan 21, 1320.Google Scholar
Synolakis, C. E. 1987 The run-up of solitary waves. J. Fluid Mech. 185, 523545.Google Scholar
Tanaka, T., Ono, Y. & Ishise, T. 1980 The open boundary value problems in ocean dynamics by finite elements. Finite Elements in Water Resources. Pentech. 5.47–5.63.Google Scholar
Tuck, E. O. & Hwang, L. 1972 Long wave generation on a sloping beach. J. Fluid Mech. 51, 449461.Google Scholar
Ünlüata, Ü. & Mei, C. C. 1975 Effects of entrance loss on harbor oscillations. J. Waterways Harbors Coastal Engng Div. ASCE 101, WW2, May, 161180.Google Scholar
Van Dorn, W. G. 1966 Boundary dissipation of oscillatory waves. J. Fluid Mech. 24, 769779.Google Scholar
Wilson, B. W. 1972 Seiches. Adv. Hydrosci. 8, 194.
Yeh, G.-T. & Chou, F.-K. 1979 Moving boundary numerical surge model. J. Waterway Port Coastal Ocean Div. ASCE 105, WW3, 247263.Google Scholar
Zelt, J. A. 1986 Tsunamis: the response of harbours with sloping boundaries to long wave radiation. PhD thesis. W. M. Keck Laboratory of Hydraulics and Water Resources, Rep. no. KH-R-47, California Institute of Technology, Pasadena, California, 318 pp.