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The evolution of time-periodic long waves of finite amplitude

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  29 March 2006

O. S. Madsen ,
C. C. Mei  and
R. P. Savage
O. S. Madsen
Affiliation:
Department of Civil Engineering, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Cambridge, Massachusetts Present address: Coastal Engineering Research Centre, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Washington, D.C.
C. C. Mei
Affiliation:
Department of Civil Engineering, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Cambridge, Massachusetts
R. P. Savage
Affiliation:
Coastal Engineering Research Centre, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Washington, D.C.
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Abstract

The breakdown of shallow water waves into forms exhibiting several secondary crests is analyzed by numerical computations based on approximate equations accounting for the effects of non-linearity and dispersion. From detailed results of two cases it is shown that when long waves are such that the parameter σ = ν*L*2/h*3 is of moderate magnitude, either due to initially steep waves generated at a wave-maker or due to forced amplification by decreasing depth, waves periodic in time do not remain simply periodic in space. Numerical results are compared with experiments for waves propagating past a slope and onto a shelf.

Type
Research Article
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 44 , Issue 1 , 21 October 1970 , pp. 195 - 208
Copyright
© 1970 Cambridge University Press

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