Hostname: page-component-78c5997874-mlc7c Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-11-16T03:26:33.810Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

Designing for Innovation: Cooperation and Competition in English Cotton, Silk, and Pottery Firms, 1750–1860

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  11 June 2019

Abstract

The ability to combine technological innovation with innovation in product design has been recognized by business historians as an important characteristic of a successful business. This article examines the use of product design as a source of competitive advantage by leading firms in the Manchester cotton, Macclesfield silk, and Staffordshire pottery sectors in the period 1750–1860. Four design strategies are identified: copying (direct imitation and adaptation), commissioning, capacity building, and collaboration. Distinction is made between proactive firms, which innovated whenever there was an opportunity, and reactive firms, which innovated only when necessary.

Type
Research Article
Copyright
Copyright © The President and Fellows of Harvard College 2019 

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

Footnotes

We would like to thank three anonymous referees. Thanks are also due for feedback and access to archives from Jonathan Aylen, Bolton Museums, Cheshire Record Office, Alice Dolan, Richard Hills, Peter Jones, Manchester Archives, Stan Metcalfe, participants at the 2016 ABH conference, Maryam Philpott, Andrew Popp, Mary Rose, Stan Siebert, Philip Sykas, and Anna Rhodes and Ron Thorn at Macclesfield Silk Museum.

References

1 Blaszczyk, Regina Lee, Imagining Consumers: Design and Innovation from Wedgwood to Corning (Baltimore, 2000)Google Scholar; Carnevali, Francesca, “‘Crooks, Thieves, and Receivers’: Transaction Costs in Nineteenth-Century Industrial Birmingham,” Economic History Review 57, no. 3 (2004): 533–50CrossRefGoogle Scholar; Dodgson, Mark, Gann, David, and Phillips, Nelson, eds., The Oxford Handbook of Innovation Management (Oxford, 2014)CrossRefGoogle Scholar; Friedman, Walter A. and Jones, Geoffrey, “Creative Industries in History,” Business History Review 85, no. 2 (2011): 237–44CrossRefGoogle Scholar.

2 Rose, Mary B., Firms, Networks, and Business Values: The British and American Cotton Industries since 1750 (Cambridge, MA, 2000)CrossRefGoogle Scholar.

3 Hills, Richard L., Development of Power in the Textile Industry from 1700–1930 (Ashbourne, 2008), 85, 101Google Scholar; Jeremy, David J., “Lancashire and the International Diffusion of Technology,” in The Lancashire Cotton Industry: A History since 1700, ed. Rose, Mary B. (Preston, 1996), 210–38Google Scholar.

4 Berg, Maxine, Luxury and Pleasure in Eighteenth-Century Britain (Oxford, 2005)Google Scholar; Lemaire, Beverly, Fashion's Favourite: The Cotton Trade and the Consumer in Britain 1660–1800 (Oxford, 1991), 3133, 41Google Scholar.

5 Blaszczyk, Imagining Consumers, 11, 89–126.

6 Blaszczyk, 274.

7 Harvey, Charles and Press, Jon, “William Morris and the Marketing of Art,” Business History 28, no. 4 (1986): 3654CrossRefGoogle Scholar; Jeremy, David J., “The Enlightened Paternalist in Action: William Hesketh Lever at Port Sunlight before 1914,” Business History 33, no. 1 (1991): 5881CrossRefGoogle Scholar.

8 Aldcroft, Derek, Education, Training and Economic Performance, 1944 to 1990 (Manchester, 1992)Google Scholar; Aldcroft, Derek, The British Economy, 1870–1939 (London, 1969), 167–89CrossRefGoogle Scholar.

9 Blaszczyk, Imagining Consumers; Mary Schoeser, “‘Shewey and Full of Work’: Design,” in Lancashire Cotton Industry, ed. Rose, 187–209; Schoeser, Mary and Rufey, Celia, English and American Textiles: From 1790 to the Present (London, 1989)Google Scholar.

10 Rose, Firms.

11 John Lewis Partnership Heritage Center http://www.johnlewismemorystore.org.uk/category/heritage_centre (accessed 30 Oct. 2017).

12 Jeremy, “Technology”; Rose, Firms; Sykas, Philip Anthony, The Secret Life of Textiles: Six Pattern Book Archives in North West England (Bolton, 2005)Google Scholar.

13 Archer, John H. G., ed., Art and Architecture in Victorian Manchester (Manchester, 1985)Google Scholar; Bell, Quentin, The Schools of Design (London, 1963)Google Scholar; Darcy, C. P., The Encouragement of the Fine Arts in Lancashire, 1760–1860 (Manchester, 1976)Google Scholar; Leahy, Helen Rees, introduction to Art, City, Spectacle: The 1857 Manchester Art Treasures Exhibition Revisited, Bulletin of the John Rylands University Library of Manchester, vol. 87 (Manchester, 2009), 720Google Scholar; Peck, Amelia, ed., Interwoven Globe: The Worldwide Textile Trade, 1500–1800 (New York, 2013)Google Scholar; Riello, Giorgio, Cotton: The Fabric that Made the Modern World (Cambridge, UK, 2013)CrossRefGoogle Scholar; Schoeser, “Design.”

14 Browne, Clare, ed., Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century from the Victoria and Albert Museum, London (London, 1996)Google Scholar; Rothstein, Natalie, The Victoria and Albert Museum's Textile Collection: Woven Textile Design in Britain to 1750 (London, 1994)Google Scholar; Natalie Rothstein, “The Silk Industry in London, 1702–1766,” (master's diss., University of London, 1961); Schoeser, Mary and Dejardin, Kathleen, French Textiles from 1760 to the Present (London, 1991)Google Scholar; Schoeser and Rufey, English and American Textiles; Schoeser, Mary, Silk (New Haven, 2007)Google Scholar; Schoeser, “Design.”

15 King, Brenda M., Silk and Empire (Manchester, 2005), 13Google Scholar

16 Collins, Louanne and Stevenson, Moira, Silk, Sarsenets, Satins, Steels and Stripes: 150 Years of Macclesfield Textile Design (Macclesfield, 1994)Google Scholar; Sarah J. Griffiths, “The Charitable Work of the Macclesfield Silk Manufacturers, 1750–1900” (PhD diss., University of Liverpool and University of Chester, 2006); Griffiths, Sarah, “The Supporters of the Macclesfield Society for Acquiring Useful Knowledge,” Northern History 48, no. 2 (2011): 295314CrossRefGoogle Scholar; Malmgreen, Gail, Silk Town: Industry and Culture in Macclesfield, 1750–1835 (Hull, 1985)Google Scholar.

17 Rhead, George Woolliscroft and Rhead, Frederick Alfred, Staffordshire Pots and Potters (London, 1905), 315Google Scholar.

18 McKendrick, Neil, “Josiah Wedgwood: An Eighteenth-Century Entrepreneur in Salesmanship and Marketing Techniques,” Economic History Review, Second Series, 12, no. 3 (1960)CrossRefGoogle Scholar.

19 Richards, Sarah, Eighteenth-Century Ceramics: Products for a Civilised Society (Manchester, 1999), 1217Google Scholar.

20 Dodgson, Mark, “Exploring New Combinations in Innovation and Entrepreneurship: Social Networks, Schumpeter, and the Case of Josiah Wedgwood (1730–1795),” Industrial and Corporate Change 20, no. 4 (2010): 1119–51CrossRefGoogle Scholar; Haggar, Reginald G., A Century of Art Education in the Potteries: With Notes on the Artists (Hanley, 1953)Google Scholar; Holt, Robin and Popp, Andrew, “Emotion, Succession, and the Family Firm: Josiah Wedgwood & Sons,” Business History 55, no. 6 (2013): 892909CrossRefGoogle Scholar; McKendrick, “Sales”; Reilly, Robin, Wedgwood: The New Illustrated Dictionary (Woodbridge, 1995), 122–23, 426–27Google Scholar; Reilly, Robin, Josiah Wedgwood (London, 1992)Google Scholar; Robinson, Eric, “Matthew Boulton and Josiah Wedgwood, Apostles of Fashion,” Business History 28, no. 3 (1986): 98114CrossRefGoogle Scholar; Schofield, R. E., “Josiah Wedgwood and a Proposed Eighteenth-Century Industrial Research Organization,” Isis 47 (Mar. 1956): 1619Google Scholar; Young, Hilary, ed., The Genius of Wedgwood (London, 1995)Google Scholar; Shapin, Steven, “The Pottery Philosophical Society, 1819–1835: An Examination of the Cultural Uses of Provincial Science,” Science Studies 2, no. 4 (1972): 311–36CrossRefGoogle Scholar; Walker, Martyn, The Development of the Mechanics’ Institute Movement in Britain and Beyond: Supporting Further Education for the Adult Working Classes (Abingdon, 2017)Google Scholar.

21 John Graham, History of the Printworks in the Manchester District from 1760 to 1846 (n.p., n.d.), Ms ff.667.3/G1, Manchester Archives, Manchester, U.K. (hereafter, MA); Sykas, Textiles.

22 Memoirs of the Literary and Philosophical Society of Manchester (hereafter MLPSM) series 1, 5 vols., (London, 1785–1802)Google Scholar; Bell, Schools; Darcy, Fine Arts; Macclesfield Society for Acquiring Useful Knowledge Committee Minutes, 1839–1860, and Annual Reports 1839–1880, D 4908/2, Cheshire Record Office, Chester, U.K. (hereafter, CRO); Griffiths, “Charitable”; Griffiths, “Knowledge.”

23 John Graham's Chemistry of Calico Printing from 1790–1835 (n.p., n.d.) informs on developments in textile coloration, while his History of the Printworks in the Manchester District from 1760 to 1846 (n.p, n.d.) details the performance of over two hundred printworks, Ms ff.667.3/G1, MA; McCulloch, John Ramsay, A Dictionary, Practical, Theoretical, and Historical of Commerce and Commercial Navigation (London, 1844)Google Scholar; Potter, Edmund, Calico Printing as an Art Manufacture (London, 1852)Google Scholar; Slagg, John Jr trans. and ed., The Cotton Trade of Lancashire and the Anglo-French Commercial Treaty of 1860, Being the Report of the English Evidence at the French Commercial Enquiry of 1870 (London, 1870)Google Scholar; and Von Schulze-Graeveritz, G., The Cotton Trade in England and the Continent: A Study in the Field of the Cotton Industry, trans. Hall, Oscar S. (London, 1895)Google Scholar; A Journal kept by Tyrall Holcroft Silk Throwster of Manchester and Macclesfield Commenced Tuesday Sept 15 1835, with additional chapter material by Ron Thorn (South Africa, n.d.), Macclesfield Museums, Macclesfield Silk Museum, Macclesfield, U.K. (hereafter, Macclesfield); The Macclesfield Courier and Herald, Macclesfield; Haggar, Art Education; Shapin, “Philosophical”; Walker, Mechanics’.

24 David Greysmith, “The Printed Textiles Industry in England, 1830–70,” (MPhil diss., Middlesex Polytechnic, 1985), 103, 129.

25 Greysmith, “Textiles,” 103.

26 Schoeser, Mary, Printed Handkerchiefs (London, 1988)Google Scholar.

27 For the role of Empire in export markets see King, Silk and Empire; and Riello, Cotton.

28 Edmund Potter, Calico Printing, 28–29.

29 McCulloch, Dictionary, 440.

30 McCulloch, 440; S. D. Chapman, “The Commercial Sector,” in Cotton, ed. Rose, 63–93, 74.

31 McCulloch, Dictionary, 1129.

32 McCulloch, 1129.

33 Hills, Richard L., Development of Power in the Textile Industry from 1700–1930 (Ashbourne, 2008), 85, 101Google Scholar.

34 Jeremy, “Technology”; Schoeser, “Design.”

35 Gaye Blake Roberts, “The London Decorating Studio,” in Genius, 92–101; Reilly, Wedgwood, 122–23, 426–27.

36 Geoffrey Timmins, “Technological Change” in Cotton, 29–62, 51.

37 Schoeser, “Design,” 199.

38 Reilly, Josiah Wedgwood, 44–57.

39 Reilly, Wedgwood, 122–23, 426–17.

40 Darcy, Fine Arts.

41 Bell, Schools.

42 Miller, Lesley Ellis, “Meeting the Needs of Manufacturers: The Education of Silk Designers in Eighteenth Century Lyons,” Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings 194 (1998), 272–81Google Scholar.

43 Greysmith, “Textiles,” 76.

44 Greysmith, 76.

45 Ellis Miller, “Silk Designers,” 272–81; Greysmith, “Textiles,” 125.

46 Payne, P. L., British Entrepreneurship in the Nineteenth Century (Basingstoke, 1988), 3436CrossRefGoogle Scholar; Sandberg, Lars G., Lancashire in Decline: A Study in Entrepreneurship, Technology, and International Trade (Columbus, 1974)Google Scholar.

47 Campbell, R., The London Tradesman (London, 1747), 115–16Google Scholar.

48 Floud, Peter, English Printed Textiles 1720–1836 (London, 1960), 8Google Scholar.

49 Toshio Kusamitsu, “British Industrialisation and Design, 1830–1851” (PhD diss., University of Sheffield, 1982).

50 Aldcroft, Education.

51 McCulloch, Dictionary, 440; Slagg Jr., Enquiry of 1870, 36–37.

52 Rose, Firms, 298.

53 Rose, 300–301.

54 Rose, 300–301. For detail on America see Scranton, Philip, Endless Novelty: Speciality Production and American Industrialization, 1865–1925 (Princeton, 1997)CrossRefGoogle Scholar; Scranton, Philip, Figured Tapestry: Production, Markets, and Power in Philadelphia Textiles, 1885–1941 (Cambridge, UK, 1989), 178Google Scholar; Field, Jacqueline, Senechel, Majorie, and Shaw, Madelyn, American Silk 1830–1930: Entrepreneurs and Artifacts (Lubbock, 2007)Google Scholar.

55 Rose, Firms, 150–62.

56 Wedgwood's written acknowledgment of receipt of the Portland vase, 10 June 1786, and Wedgwood to Bentley, 16 Feb. 1771, in Letters of Josiah Wedgwood, 3 vols., ed. Trustees of the Wedgwood Museum (Manchester, 1903–1906), 2:336 and 2:11–12.

57 Reilly, Josiah Wedgwood, 55.

58 Hefford, Wendy, The Victoria and Albert Museums’ Textile Collection: Design for Printed Textiles in England from 1750 to 1850 (London, 1992), 10Google Scholar

59 February entry, The Designer's Letter-book 1806–1813 Bury Printworks, D.1–1971, Bolton Museums, Bolton, U.K.

60 The Strines Printing Company Registered Patterns, 6 vols., 1870–1876, 1877–1881, M75/Historical Collection 106, 107, 108, 109, 111, 112, Green 1323–1328, MA.

61 The Collection of Design Books from the Studio of John Godwin and Sons, 1875–1901, John Godwin and Sons Archive 1860–1950, Macclesfield.

62 Josiah Wedgwood to Bentley, Etruria, 30 or 31 Nov. 1771, in The Selected Letters of Josiah Wedgwood, ed. Finer, A. and Savage, G. (London, 1965), 269Google Scholar.

63 Wedgwood to Thom Byerley, 12 Dec. 1790, in Finer and Savage, Selected Letters, 329–30.

64 Darcy, Fine Arts, 111.

65 Greysmith, “Textiles,” 77–82

66 Greysmith, David, “Patterns, Piracy and Protection in the Textile Printing Industry, 1787–1850,” Textile History 14, no. 2 (1983): 165–94, 173CrossRefGoogle Scholar.

67 Greysmith, “Piracy,” 178–79.

68 Tattersall, Bruce, Stubbs and Wedgwood: Unique Alliance Between Artist and Potter (London, 1974), 17Google Scholar.

69 Tattersall, Stubbs, 67, 69.

70 Reilly, Wedgwood, 421; Townsend, Horace, “Lady Templetown and Josiah Wedgwood,” Art & Life 11, no. 4 (1919): 186–92CrossRefGoogle Scholar; Wedgwood to Lady Templeton (draft), 27 June 1783, in Finer and Savage, Selected Letters, 269–70.

71 Holt and Popp, “Emotion.”

72 Roberts, “London Decorating Studio,” 92.

73 Wedgwood to Bentley, Etruria, 19 May 1770, in Trustees, Letters, 1:346–47.

74 McKendrick, “Sales”; Wedgwood to Bentley, 23 May 1770, in Trustees, Letters, 1: 348–9.

75 Wedgwood to Bentley, 31 Dec. 1767, in Finer and Savage, Selected Letters, 60.

76 Wedgwood to Bentley, 14 June 1772, in Trustees, Letters, 2:79.

77 Reilly, Wedgwood, 102.

78 Hargreaves, Benjamin, Messrs Hargreaves’ Calico Printworks at Accrington and Recollections of Broad Oaks (Accrington, 1882)Google Scholar.

79 Hargreaves, Recollections, 46.

80 Hargreaves, 40.

81 Hargreaves, 54.

82 Hargreaves, 46.

83 Hargreaves, 66.

84 Sykas, Textiles, 105.

85 Sykas, 106.

86 Lightfoot Family Notebooks and Documents, Broad Oak Printworks, M75/1, 2 and M75 II, Green 1304 and 1305, MA.

87 Sykas, Textiles, 109.

88 Hargreaves, Recollections, 69.

89 Hargreaves, 69.

90 Hargreaves, 29, 69.

91 Hargreaves, 29.

92 Hargreaves, 29.

93 Jones, Peter M., “Industrial Enlightenment in Practice: Visitors to the Soho Manufactory, 1766–1820,” Midland History 33, no. 1 (2008): 6896CrossRefGoogle Scholar; Jeremy, “Technology.”

94 Wedgwood to Bentley, 25 June 1769, in Finer and Savage, Selected Letters, 79.

95 Samuel Jones, painter, Emigrations, 8 Mar. 1784, in Finer and Savage, Selected Letters, 288.

96 Harris, John R., Industrial Espionage and Technology Transfer: Britain and France in the Eighteenth Century (Abingdon, 2017)CrossRefGoogle Scholar.

97 Henry, Thomas, “On the Advantages of Literature and Philosophy in General, and Especially on the Consistency of Literary and Philosophical with Commercial Pursuits,” read on 3 Oct. 1781 at the Manchester Literary and Philosophical Society, MLPSM series 1 (1785), 729, 9Google Scholar; Darcy, Fine Arts, 96.

98 Henry, “Advantages,” 9.

99 Thomas Barnes, “On the Affinity Subsisting between the Arts, with a Plan for Promoting and Extending Manufacturers, by Encouraging those Arts, on which Manufacturers Principally Depend,” read at the Manchester Literary and Philosophical Society, 9 Jan. 1792, MLPSM, series 1, vol. 1, 72–89; “Proposals for Establishing in Manchester a Plan of Liberal Education for Young Men Designed for Civil and Active Life, Whether in Trade, or Any of the Professions. Manchester 23 Apr. 1783. Resolved at the Meeting of the Literary and Philosophical Society that this Paper, Drawn up by a Member, at the Request of the Society, be Printed, and Offered to the Consideration of the General Public,” MLPSM, series 1, vol. 2, 27–42. Barnes was the minister of the Cross Street Presbyterian Chapel. Darcy, Fine Arts, 95.

100 Griffiths, “Knowledge”; Mabel Tylecote, “The Mechanics’ Institute Movement in Lancashire and Yorkshire, 1824 to 1850, with Special Reference to the Institutions at Manchester, Ashton-under-Lyne and Huddersfield” (PhD diss., University of Manchester, 1930); Walker, Mechanics’.

101 Darcy, Fine Arts, 108–9.

102 Tylecote, “Mechanics’,” 116, 136.

103 Stuart MacDonald, “The Royal Manchester Institution” in Art and Architecture, 28–45, 40.

104 Darcy, Fine Arts, 109.

105 Bell, Schools, 112.

106 Collins and Stevenson, Silk, 20.

107 Griffiths, “Knowledge,” 295–96.

108 Annual Reports 1839–1880, D 4908/2, CRO.

109 Collins and Stevenson, Silk, 20–22.

110 Collins and Stevenson, 26; Thomas Cartwright (Headmaster), quoted in the Arts and Crafts Review 1916, uncatalogued material, Macclesfield.

111 Shapin, “Philosophical,” 311, 320–21.

112 Shapin, 315, 317.

113 Schofield, “Organization,” 16–19.

114 Rhead and Rhead, Pots, 315.

115 Wedgwood Institute in Burslem founded in 1869, followed by Fenton Art School in 1889, Tunstall Art School in 1890, and Longton Art School in 1899. Haggar, Art Education, 10–11.

116 Rhead and Rhead, Pots, 315.

117 Griffiths, “Charitable,” 130–35.

118 Bell, Schools, 28; Snodin, Michael, “Who Led Taste? Georgian Britain, 1714–1837,” in Design and the Decorative Arts Britain 1500–1900, ed. Snodin, Michael and Styles, John (London, 2001), 217–48, 225Google Scholar.

119 MacDonald, “Manchester Institution,” 40–41.

120 MacDonald, 42.

121 Griffiths, “Charitable,” 130–35.

122 MacDonald, “Manchester Institution,” 40.

123 Darcy, Fine Arts, 114.

124 Griffiths, “Charitable,” 130–35.

125 MacDonald, “Manchester Institution,” 42.

126 Carnevali, “Birmingham.”

127 Rose, Firms, 300–301.